Letters from The Camino de Santiago

Lugo to San Ramón da Retorta: Camino Primitivo day 15, June 22, 2021

Day 15, Lugo to San Ramón da Retorta Poncho on, poncho off, poncho on poncho off. Many stops and starts as the days wandered through moments of drizzle, then rain, then grey skies but dry skies.  We were quiet as we walked, but there was still room for photo bombing. The birds were active throughout …

Letters from The Camino de Santiago

A Rest in Lugo: Camino Primitivo day 14, June 21, 2021

A Day of Rest My back is seizing up. I hope I can keep walking. Yoga, ibuprofen, walking without a backpack– the plan for the day. I don’t remember with exactitude how the trekking was from our stay at Porciña Muñiz, but I remember it was wet. The drizzly, foggy morning turned to bouts of pouring …

Letters from The Camino de Santiago

Vilar de Cas to Lugo: Camino Primitivo day 13, June 20, 2021

Día 13 Vilar de Cas a Lugo: Feria! We started off late, almost 1pm. Today: Frustration, cold and wet, rain off and on, mud— but, green and gorgeous as ever. We’re not going to make it to the Feria in Lugo— I’m taking deep breaths, it’s ok. Sometimes our thoughts aren’t worth holding onto, but …

Letters from The Camino de Santiago

O Cádavo to Vilar de Cas: Camino Primitivo Day 12, June 19, 2021

Día 12 O Cádavo a Vilar de Cas: Surprise, “una brasa”–I’m definitely not a vegetarian anymore! This place came out of nowhere, a gem of a pension in the midst of country –cows and agricultural land…and, what a feast! Fresh lettuce and tomatoes from the garden, beef and pork from their farm…What amazing people we …

Letters from The Camino de Santiago

Berducedo to A Fonsagrada: Camino Primitivo day 9, June 16, 2021

Day 9 Berducedo, past Grandas de Salime to A Fonsagrada: a private pilgrim shelter Friends we met along the road to Grandas de Salime. This cutie little donkey ran down from the upper field to meet us, we didn’t give him food but he sure loved our attention! Along the way we rested by a …

Letters from The Camino de Santiago

Hospitales to Berducedo: Camino Primitivo Day 8, June 15, 2021

Day 8 Hospitales via Polla de Allende to Berducedo, passing Grandas de Salime: Rocking and Rollin’ Rocks, and lots of ’em! And a long steep descent of several kilometers. The day began at the Alto de Marta, it was a chilly, foggy morning and we were bundled up for the adventure. As we got closer …

Letters from The Camino de Santiago

Campiello to Hospitales: Camino Primitivo day 7, June 14, 2021

Day 7 from Campiello through Hospitales; the booty maker We began walking earlier than usual this morning. Today is to be the most challenging so far, through the Hospitales. It’s all uphill. Today we reach gods house. Throughout the first part of the morning we walked under the shaded canopy of chestnut and oak trees. …

Letters from The Camino de Santiago

Tineo to Campiello: Camino Primitivo day 6, June 13, 2021

Day 6 Tineo and the Albergue La Plaza to Campiello What was hard to today was the heat! And of course more up-up-ups with gentle downs. We detoured from the path to have our picnic lunch at the Monasterio Santa María real, founded in 780!! It’s in ruins, except the main nave. Through a small …

Letters from The Camino de Santiago

Bodenaya to Tineo: Camino Primitivo day 5, June 12, 2021

Day 5 from David and Celia’s house in Bodenaya to Tineo, La Plaza Albergue At David and Celia’s we experienced the Camino spirit –humans coming together sharing, talking, laughing and breaking bread in community. We spent a lovely evening with Antonio from Cadiz, Juame from Mallorca and two of Bodenaya’s new residents, bringing the population …

Letters from The Camino de Santiago

Salas to Bodenaya: Camino Primitivo Day 4, June 11, 2021

Day 4 from Salas and the albergue, Casa de Sueño, to Bodenaya 8km. Another Camino angel today… More bananas, this time from the lady at the bar in Salas! I loved Salas, it is a medieval town with a small tower and a gorgeous church. We stayed in Casa de Sueño and slept like babies …