Leaving Lugo

Day 15, Lugo to San Ramón da Retorta

Leaving the walled city of Lugo

Poncho on, poncho off, poncho on poncho off. Many stops and starts as the days wandered through moments of drizzle, then rain, then grey skies but dry skies. 

We were quiet as we walked, but there was still room for photo bombing.

The birds were active throughout the day but you knew right away when the rain let up! Their songs rang out louder and more joyful through the air. 


It doesn’t matter how far we walk, it’s the last two kilometers that feel the roughest… Are we there yet? I kept wondering… hoping.

Hoping it was our hostel, but it’s a church and it’s graveyard– I’m not sleeping in a graveyard!

The chilly, wet day reminded me of my mushroom picking days in Oregon, in fall. I saw some mushrooms as we walked, but nothing I recognized as edible. They made me smile as I recalled past moments collecting nature’s bounty. 


Just around a bend in the grove of trees we were traveling through I spotted it, our home for the night, I felt a sense of relief. 


O Cándido, our hostel. Hammocks, tables spread out over the grass. Had the sun shone bright the scene was perfect for a relaxing and having barefoot afternoon on the grass!

All I wanted a shower and a warm bowl of soup by a fire. 
We entered and a note was left for us to make ourselves comfortable. 
We took the sheets provided for us upstairs, made our beds then returned to the main room, still alone. 

The Primitivo trail is less traversed and one can find solitude. We have been the only pilgrims in a hostel on several occasions, tonight we share space with a French man. 

The beauty along the way


We helped ourselves to a couple of beers. The hospitalero showed up carrying boxes of cherries and happy we made ourselves comfortable. 

I decided against dinner, it’s too hard to eat and then go straight to bed, so I went up to shower, Nasco had a simple, but warm meal made by our host, and after, we quickly found our way to Dreamland. 

I felt warm and cozy under the covers, the oil radiator our chimney, a gentle rain lulled me to sleep. 

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